The first day, to my surprise I had fun body boarding the waves. I had no expectations and no goals. Just to get to know the beach, the board, the feeling of the waves pushing you and the gliding sensation.
The second day, we got some instruction on where to put your feet and how to stand on your board. Our instructor also emphasized the danger of surfing and the power of the waves. The ‘washing machine’ you’d find yourself in as a surfer, many times. I was so focused on ‘working’ the waves and putting everything I had learned into practice, that at the end of the day I was sore all over. More importantly; I realized that I forgot to have fun…
That night I dreamt of the waves. They were inviting me to play.
The third day I went into the water with a completely different attitude. The waves were my friends. I would wait for one that invited me to play. Not use every wave (as they told us) to practice. To my surprise, it went very well. I got up onto the board and managed to have a bit of balance and control, while having fun!
Surfing is difficult, very difficult. Respect to all surfers. And great respect to the force of the waves and nature in general. It is such feeling of freedom to be able to ride them, just for a few seconds!