Hong Kong, Two Worlds in One City

The first time I visited Hong Kong was back in the 1990s, when I was backpacking through Asia. What I remember most is how tiny everything was. My apartment was barely bigger than a shoebox, the streets were narrow, and enormous buildings towered above me in every direction. In a city where so many people live in such a small space, every square metre counts.

In 2026, more than thirty years later, I’m back. This time for a completely different experience, together with entrepreneur friends from the Dynamite Circle. Luxury hotels, exclusive clubs, elaborate dinners and fascinating encounters. But the Hong Kong I remember from all those years ago is still here too.

A Trip Down Memory Lane, Just Around the Corner

I’m staying at the Y Hotel in Sheung Wan. My room is small but clean, with a comfortable bed and good air conditioning. There’s no breakfast or gym, just a small lounge. But the hotel is affordable and the location is fantastic.

Sheung Wan might just be my favourite neighbourhood in Hong Kong. On my first day, I wander through its narrow streets. Along Tai Ping Shan Street, I reach Man Mo Temple, a traditional Chinese temple filled with incense and rituals. A little further along is Cat Street, known for its antique shops and curiosities.

Narrow street between tall buildings in Hong Kong
Antiques and curiosities in a Hong Kong shop

But what I enjoy most are the streets where everyday life goes on as usual. Around Bonham Strand West and Ko Shing Street, you’ll find traditional Chinese medicine shops and stores packed with dried fish, seafood and shark fins.

I recognise it immediately. This is the Hong Kong I remember from my first visit in the 1990s. The smells, the hustle and bustle, the little shops selling things I wouldn’t even know what to do with. It feels as if hardly anything has changed in thirty years.

Dried fish and seafood in baskets in a Hong Kong shop
Dried shark fins in glass jars in a Hong Kong shop

Two Worlds, One City

What fascinates me most about Hong Kong is how two completely different worlds exist side by side. Old and new. Rich and poor. East and West. Past and future.

One moment you’re walking past tiny, dimly lit shops where families have been selling the same products for generations. A few minutes later, you’re standing in an ultra-modern building with marble floors, designer furniture and spectacular views of the skyline.

What’s so striking is that these worlds barely seem to blend into each other. They simply exist alongside one another, almost like two different dimensions occupying the same space.

Live crab vending machine in Hong Kong

Even the Old Pavements Are Spotless

Another thing that strikes me is how incredibly clean Hong Kong is. That doesn’t mean everything looks new or perfectly maintained. Quite the opposite. Some pavements are made of old concrete, possibly dating back to British colonial times, with decades of patches and repairs in different shades of grey. But there’s hardly any litter anywhere.

Everywhere I look, people are sweeping and cleaning. Nobody seems to throw anything on the ground. Even people walking their tiny dogs carefully clean up after them. I suspect hefty fines and a strong sense of discipline have something to do with it. Whatever the reason, the result is impressive.

From Dried Fish to Soho House

The contrast with the traditional streets outside could hardly be greater when you step into Soho House. A beautiful, exclusive members’ club with stylish interiors, elegant spaces and every luxury you could wish for. A Western oasis in the middle of Hong Kong.

I’m here with entrepreneurs from the Dynamite Circle, an international network I’ve been part of for years. We meet up all over the world, and this time Hong Kong is our meeting point.

Dinner with Dynamite Circle entrepreneurs at Soho House, Hong Kong

Incense, Spirits and an Unexpected Experience

While exploring the old streets, I visit a Chinese temple. At one point, I suddenly find myself in a room with an enormous iron furnace. Looking around, I notice thousands of small wooden plaques, each about the size of a hand, covered in Chinese characters and photographs of people.

It slowly dawns on me that these are memorials to people who have passed away. I realise I might be standing in some kind of crematorium.

I also feel an overwhelming heaviness, almost as if the spirits of all those people are still lingering there. I perform a ritual, trying to guide them towards the light.

But the heaviness stays with me. I carry that feeling around for the rest of the day. Maybe I’m extra sensitive because of the jet lag. Or maybe there’s simply a lot of old energy lingering in a place like this. I don’t know, but it’s an unusual experience that stays with me long afterwards.

Small Chinese shrine with offerings in Hong Kong
Red furnace with iron doors in a Hong Kong temple

Dim Sum and Dinners That Never Seem to End

Hong Kong has plenty to offer when it comes to food. With my friends, I visit Madame Fù and Ho Lee Fook, among other restaurants. Both are fairly upscale and popular with tourists, but they’re housed in beautiful buildings and serve delicious traditional food. The best part is sharing lots of different dishes, giving you the chance to sample an incredible variety of local specialities.

And as so often happens when I’m with fellow entrepreneurs, the conversations turn out to be at least as memorable as the food.

Esther and friends sharing dinner in Hong Kong

From Skyscrapers to a Deserted Beach

Our whole group rents a traditional junk boat and cruises through Hong Kong’s harbour. It’s incredibly impressive to see the city from the water, with those enormous skyscrapers lining the shore.

The day before, I’d already taken a regular ferry to another part of the city. A much cheaper way to enjoy the views from the water, surrounded by locals going about their daily lives.

On the junk boat, there’s plenty of food and drinks, and of course lots of conversation. We also stop at a beach that looks absolutely idyllic at first glance. Palm trees, lush greenery, sand and huge rocks. It almost feels like a deserted tropical island.

Until you turn around and look out towards the water. Suddenly, there’s an enormous factory and all kinds of industrial installations right in front of you.

Dynamite Circle group on a junk boat in a green bay in Hong Kong

Taking the Peak Tram Above the Skyscrapers

One of the highlights is riding the famous Peak Tram, which climbs steeply up to Victoria Peak. When you reach the top, you expect to find yourself on a mountaintop, but instead you arrive at a huge shopping mall. It’s a major tourist attraction.

I quickly buy a red bean pastry, and while munching on it, we set off on a 45-minute walk around the Peak.

And what a surprise! Beautiful nature, incredible views of Hong Kong and the surrounding mountains, and as the sun begins to set, everything is bathed in a gorgeous warm light. So close to such a busy tourist attraction, yet with surprisingly few people around. An unexpected treat to be walking through nature with such spectacular views of the city.

View of the Hong Kong skyline and harbour from Victoria Peak
Esther and friends at sunset on Victoria Peak

A Day Trip to the Future

From Hong Kong, it’s easy to take the train to Shenzhen, one of China’s most futuristic cities.

I’d planned a day trip myself, but after so many activities, I was simply too tired and decided to skip it. My friends went and came back with photos and stories of drone deliveries in the park, robotaxis and all kinds of other futuristic experiences.

So if you’re visiting Hong Kong and have a spare day, take the train to Shenzhen in the morning and return in the evening. It’s a chance to take a day trip into the future.

Thirty Years Later, Still Two Different Worlds

What stays with me most after this trip is how easily you can move between completely different worlds in Hong Kong. From centuries-old traditions to futuristic technology, from tiny local shops to exclusive clubs, from crowded skyscrapers to surprisingly peaceful nature.

And the wonderful thing is that the Hong Kong I remember from all those years ago is still there. All you have to do is turn down a side street.