{"id":36732,"date":"2019-01-14T21:13:41","date_gmt":"2019-01-14T20:13:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/estherjacobs.info\/?p=36732"},"modified":"2024-03-04T16:18:47","modified_gmt":"2024-03-04T15:18:47","slug":"buenos-aires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/estherjacobs.info\/en\/blog\/buenos-aires\/","title":{"rendered":"Buenos Aires"},"content":{"rendered":"

Buenos Aires<\/h1>\n<\/div>

Imagine a time machine transporting you back to the nineties. Buenos Aires feels like a mix of Italy, Spain and France in that era. Decades-old cars (meticulously maintained) in the tree-lined streets, no electric cars or other signs of \u2018modern\u2019 technology in the cobblestoned streets, dilapidated once-grand buildings, lots of sidewalk cafes and people taking it easy.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Remember seeing telegraph poles covered in flyers, from before the internet era? They still use those paper announcements in Buenos Aires. You see them everywhere!<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Economically and politically, Argentina is bad news. Extreme inflation; 20% per month. Restaurant menus and even supermarket shelves no longer show prices because everything is changing so quickly. You can view prices in an app. Even middle class Argentinians cannot travel abroad because of the poor exchange rate and many \u2018normal\u2019 people are forced to live in the streets. Some of my local friends try to see the positive side: \u201cthe situation stimulates entrepreneurship\u201d, but everybody agrees the situation is very sad indeed. For visitors from abroad there is some good news: everything is extremely cheap in Argentina: accommodation, food, transport, entertainment, etc. And by visiting you also stimulate the economy, have a great experience and meet wonderful people.<\/p>\n

This blog is not meant to give insights into the delicate field of politics or economics, but I did want to set some context before I share the tips and experiences of my stay in Buenos Aires. This is the fourth time I visited Argentina. In 2005 I visited the country as a backpacker, in 2015 I wrote an English blog about my month stay in Buenos Aires<\/a>. I fell in love with the city, so I came back again in 2018\/2019 and in 2024.<\/p>\n<\/div>

Tango<\/h2>\n

My main reason to keep coming back is tango. In 2015 I gave myself a challenge to learn the dance and I found a completely new way of being; a lifestyle instead of just some steps. I wrote a blog ‘life lessons from tango<\/a>‘ about my experiences.<\/p>\n

Many foreigners want to experience the tango feeling and go to a tourist show; either an expensive dinner show or a demonstration in a touristy place such as Plaza Dorrego. Three years ago this was also my first tango experience and I was still impressed. With help of my friend and teacher Adrian Luna<\/a>, I became more aware of the social tango scene, where people dance to connect, not for the show. I really enjoyed the Milongas (tango dance evenings) for mostly older locals, such as Salon Canning<\/a> and Club Gricel<\/a> (one of the most traditional milongas). These gives you a wonderful sense of the tango scene, either to dance or watch. Famous historic tango bar (featured in the movie \u2018Fermin\u2019) Los Laureles<\/a>: you can enjoy a traditional dinner and watch and dance. In La Catedral<\/a>, an eclectic, almost \u2018hippie\u2019 place, there are more foreigners and you can take your first class, but there are also good local dancers.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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If you want to dance or watch the locals, this website lists all the milongas for each day<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Want private classes? My teacher Adrian Luna<\/a> combines tango with coaching (tango as a mirror), resulting in a life changing experience. I also took some classes with Mariana Soler<\/a>, who has beautiful insights about connection.<\/p>\n<\/div>

Keeping it local<\/h2>\n

Instead of traveling through the entire country, or trying to visit all the different neighborhoods and attractions of Buenos Aires, I like to \u2018keep it small\u2019. I rent an Airbnb in Palermo and mainly stayed within a few blocks of my apartment. This means I get to feel like a \u2018local\u2019, getting to know the local shops, restaurants and people in \u2018my\u2019 area. So I will not share any main attractions (you can find these online or in any guidebook, but I usually find them overpriced and disappointing), but rather my personal small \u2018discoveries\u2019\u2026<\/p>\n

The Airbnb I stayed in, wasn\u2019t remarkable enough to mention, but the area I stayed in, is. I love Palermo. Around Plaza Armenia there are a lot of cafes and trendy shops, but I always stay just a few blocks away, so I get the more local feel on a daily basis and the trendiness when I want. The area I prefer to stay is around the famous Don Julio restaurant.<\/p>\n<\/div>

Places to work<\/h2>\n

Palermo has some really nice co-working spaces, based on the principle \u2018pay for the time you stay, not for what you consume\u2019. You pay an hourly rate of a few dollars, including all drinks, snacks and sometimes even lunch. Internet is super fast (an exception in the country) and it is an opportunity to meet other coworkers. My favorite local place is Cafe Flor<\/a>.<\/p>\n

I also regularly went to Bar del Pasaje<\/a>. A lively local book store with a \u2018hidden\u2019 cafe tucked in the rear. Daily lunch menu is around \u20ac7.<\/p>\n

Cafe Registrado<\/a> is a light modern cafe with great coffee, juices, salads, cakes and a good selection of healthy food. Internet is average, but it is a nice place to catch up on a few emails. I went to their branch on Gurruchaga street, near Plaza Armenia, which was somehow not featured on their website\u2026<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Nice touristy things<\/h2>\n

Take a private tango class\/ tango experience<\/a> (it is not just about the dance!) with Adrian Luna.<\/p>\n

El Ateneo Grand Splendid book store<\/a> in an old theatre.
\nPuerto Madero: High end strolling by the water.
\nLa caminito in Boca: colorful street, a journey back in time when people lived in houses of painted metal in this poor and rough area. Take good care of your belongings. Caminito is very touristy, but great for colorful pictures – and to realize how nice it is to stay in local areas\u2026 \ud83d\ude42
\nI did not do this myself, but some of my friends like this bike tour of the city<\/a> with knowledgeable Dutch guides.
\nWant to do something artistic with locals? Take some watercolor painting classes with the \u2018master\u2019 Vladimir Merchensky at Arte Tantatinta<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Local restaurants and vinotecas<\/h2>\n

The tips below are from my 2019 stay. On my Google maps<\/a> you can find my 2024 favorite restaurants, cafe’s and work places.<\/p>\n